“Lizard of Oz” E5 6a first ascent, Morocco

Twid getting stuck in on the 1st ascent of "Lizard of Oz" at the previously undiscovered crag "The Lizard"

Twid getting stuck in on the 1st ascent of “Lizard of Oz” E5 6a. Previously undiscovered crag “The Lizard”, Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

On a recent trip in search of new trad routes in the Anti Atlas of Morocco, we explored a previously undiscovered crag. Before placing the first wire, Twid was startled by a reptilian that darted out from a handhold.

Combined with the extended profile of this striking feature on the Tizi Escarpment, “The Lizard” became the obvious name for the crag and provided a theme for the names of five first ascents that day. The name of the sixth new route “Monkey Shoulder”, may well have been inspired by a fine, blended malt whisky – but that’s another story.

Twid pulling hard on the 1st ascent of "The Lizard of Oz" E5 6a at the newly discovered crag "The Lizard" on the Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image then click again to enlarge to full size.

Twid pulling hard on the 1st ascent of “The Lizard of Oz” E5 6a at the newly discovered crag “The Lizard” on the Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the picture, then click again to enlarge to full size.

The image below shows an overview of the section of the Lizard that received our attention on our first visit. Paul Donnithorne (in blue) can be seen at the top of route 5 belaying Emma Alsford (green) at third height in the crack line on route 6. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

Lizard-Crag-overview

The Lizard rears up 1.5kms South East of Doudat and South West of Assldrar on the Tizi Escarpment in the Moroccan Anti Atlas. The rock is predominantly sound quartzite and and offers plenty of potential for many more high quality routes.

Nigel-6653

Nigel being brutally punished by the “Lizard of Oz” E5 6a.

IFMGA Mike “Twid” Turner, Martin Bischoff and KragRags founder, Nigel Braggins, made up one team – Emma Alsford and Paul Donnithorne made up the other. These six 1st ascents on 24th March were written up in the new routes book at Kasbah Tizourgane for inclusion in the next  supplement of Crack Addicts’ “Morocco Rock” guide book to Jebel el Kest & Taskra North. All photos © Nigel Braggins 2014.

KragRags is a family run business dedicated to making ethically produced clothes for climbers. When we’re not out climbing, we’re busy creating comfortable, high quality, eco-friendly clothing, from 100% organic cotton, using green renewable energy, ethical Fair Wear employment and ecologically friendly farming and manufacturing practices. Click these links to see our unique designs for men and women.

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One thought on ““Lizard of Oz” E5 6a first ascent, Morocco

  1. Pingback: The Mountain Guiding Company » New Routes in Morocco

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