Monkey Shoulder – E5 6a 1st ascent, Morocco

Emma Alsford going for it on "Monkey Shoulder" E5 6a on the previously undiscovered crag "The Lizard", Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco.

Emma Alsford going for it on “Monkey Shoulder” E5 6a on the previously undiscovered crag “The Lizard”, Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge.

Emma Alsford leading the first part of the first ascent of Monkey Shoulder. Twid's route "Lizard of Oz" goes up the steep wall above the corner in deep shadow behind.

Emma Alsford leading the first part of the first ascent of Monkey Shoulder. Twid’s route “Lizard of Oz” goes up the steep wall above the corner in deep shadow behind. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge.

This was a stunning line in a fantastic location. Emma's deceptively relaxed position in this picture belies the difficulty and strenuous nature of the route. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

This was a stunning line in a fantastic location. Emma’s deceptively relaxed position in this picture belies the difficulty and strenuous nature of the route. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

“Relaxed?” Emma said “I gave up 2/3 of the way up the route and then Paul finished it. Siege tactics I’m afraid. Anyway, definitely an E5 I want to go back for… Monkey Shoulder is one of the most awesome climbs I’ve done in a long while and I intend to crush it in October.”

Paul Donnithorne bridging out near the crux of the 1st ascent of "Monkey Shoulder", Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

Paul Donnithorne bridging out near the crux of the 1st ascent of “Monkey Shoulder”, Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

Monkey Shoulder? Any relationship between a blended malt whiskey favoured by some climbers and the name of this route is probably coincidental.

Paul Donnithorne well on the way to completing the 1st ascent of "Monkey Shoulder", at the previously undiscovered crag "The Lizard", Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

Paul Donnithorne well on the way to completing the 1st ascent of “Monkey Shoulder”, at the previously undiscovered crag “The Lizard”, Tizi Escarpment, Anti Atlas, Morocco. Click on the image and then click again to enlarge to full size.

This new trad route will be written up in the next supplement of “Morocco Rock” but in the meantime a rough topo diagram, showing the approximate lines of the six 1st ascents, climbed on the same day at this section of the previously undiscovered crag “The Lizard”, can be seen here. All photos © Nigel Braggins 2014

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One thought on “Monkey Shoulder – E5 6a 1st ascent, Morocco

  1. Pingback: The Mountain Guiding Company » New Routes in Morocco

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